Death of Streetwear, rise of Organised Carelessness… but also, Tailoring.

Since the naughties, streetwear has focused on essential day-to-day comfort wear and has recently evolved into creatively styled masterpieces. I’m not suggesting that all trends must end, but it's time to stop overdoing it. While you might want an affordable tracksuit, fast fashion brands have made streetwear so overly commercialized It shows up in my nightmares, and with brands like Bershka or Boohoo, the trackies, NFL-looking jerseys, oversized pants, and accessories are often tacky and overdone. However, there is hope. Here are my favorite collection and creative directors this season.

I present to you Willy Chavarria: queer (most male designers are queer of some sort), Latinx, and the CFDA Award winner for Menswear Designer of the Year for 2023-24. It has been announced through the Paris FW calendar that Chavarria will have a debut collection at Paris FW this coming year, which is a monumental moment for him.

 Chavarria's distinct approach stems from his dedication to honouring the often-overlooked American workforce. Something unseen by other creative directors. In an interview with ELLE, he revealed that "janitorial services and such" unexpectedly inspired his Spring 2025 ‘AMERICA’ collection. This unconventional muse reflects Chavarria's commitment to celebrating the unsung heroes of society, infusing his designs with a powerful sense of social consciousness. The collection itself was filled with stunning tailoring on everything from two-piece shirts and jorts, and skirts and capri pants to blazer suits and jackets. All with a touch of streetwear with hats and jerseys featured as accessories, and more homage with keys on belt lines. Boohoo Man wishes they could outdo the Willy Chavarria X Adidas wear in this Spring 2025 collection.

Vogue Runway Spring 25 Menswear Willy Chavarria

Reviewing previous collections, you can see the experimental shapes and tailoring used. Capris that blow out like classic Japanese workwear pants and oversized suit pants are so extreme that the models are seen picking up the trousers, like Anok Yai’s runaway bride moment for Vetements. Willy Chavarria is the king of merging old-style streetwear with formal occasion wear to create the brilliance we see on his runways. I LOVE. I think he is genuinely setting the mark for designers this year and last, and I hope he will remain at his namesake label for more years to come. His work transcends mere fashion, becoming a platform for social commentary and a celebration of diverse perspectives. Certainly, moments like this are the reason we indulge so much in the beauty of fashion.

Vogue Runway Spring 25 Menswear Willy Chavarria

My favourite takeaway this fashion year is the rise of 'organised carelessness' when it comes to styling. Chavarria and Maison Margiela have this down to a tea. The mixture of textures in a look, and ESPECIALLY shapes, is what captivates me, and makes me want to recreate them. It’s just fun, I only see: the vision and sex appeal.

Vogue Runway Spring 25 Ready-To-Wear Saint Laurent

Now, a final point on shapes. Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent. Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear. Layering master, he grabbed us with the slicked-back-old, styled hair, and the large trenches over larger longline blazers, with matching bottoms, all beautifully tailored and giving us the androgyny we need from a show. The setting of the golden oval above the models on a dark runway was a perfect luxury spectacle. There’s something about tall models walking towards that Vogue camera, in suits and shades, that gives for the cuntiest shot. SL’s mixture of colours in this same collection has a resemblance to what I call 'organised carelessness', with the long neck pieces stretching out the height and going further into silhouetting.

Vogue Runway Spring 25 Ready-To-Wear Saint Laurent

Merry Christmas Everyone! Until next time.